Uromastyx Brumation schedule
I did a light brumation in 2009/2010 due to all my adult Uromastyx are wild caught and I have had them for less then one year. I did not want to put them into a hard brumation for fear of them getting sick or dyeing. Plus I have had conversations with other breeders that are having successful mating and producing hatchlings with little or no brumation.
2009 /2010 Brumation schedule;
December 6th 2009; Stop feeding all who are going to brumate this year. Vacuumed allseeds and extra food in the enclosures of those to going to brumate this year to make sure that absolutely no food or seed is left in enclosures of those going to brumate this year.
December 19th 2009; Turned off basking and florescent UVB lighting on those to going to brumate this year.
January 9th 2010; Reset Lights, Start Feeding and resumed normal feeding and light schedule
I did offer 4 hours of basking lights and florescent lights every Saturday or Sunday but no food was offered for the whole period.
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1999 Brumation schedule;
Sifted sand in all enclosures of Uro’s to be hibernated to make sure no food left in sand
November 28th 1999
Stop feeding all who are going to hibernate
this year.
** Need to give them a couple weeks to pass the food in there stomachs, prior to turning out the lights
December 11th 1999 Cut out all lights on those who are going to Hibernate
I did offer the U.ornates 4 hours of basking lights and florescent lights every Wednesday and Saturday but no food was offered for the whole period.
U.ornates do not seem to go into a deep hibernation, seems like more of a brumation. I offer short basking time a couple times a week and did observe them basking on many occasions.
January 2rd or 9th 2000 Reset Lights, Start Feeding and resumed normal feeding and light schedule
Warning: There is always risk when hibernation or brumating Uromastyx. Please do not hibernate / brumate unless you are serious about breeding Uromastyx. There is a health risk and hibernation / brumation has even resulted in death in some collectors collections.
The above method worked for me to produce fertile eggs. I realize it is not the most scientific method that can be used, and Brumation may not even be needed. I have had conversations with a breeder of Benti and Mails that does not brumate and he has hatched many successful clutches with out cooling his lizards.
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